Ciano

Sam Sifton, NY Times Review
There are two remarkable things going on at Ciano
The first is Mr. Gallante?s food, which is ambitious, beautiful and flavor packed, a kind of Italian home cooking made grand and attractive, rich as Berlusconi, not as oily. It is less precious, less purposefully fancy, less aggressively upscale than what he was putting forth at Cru
For the second remarkable thing about Ciano, named for the Tuscan hill town Montepulciano, is its wine list and, as important, the manner in which its grapes are served.
And Bjoern Boettcher, the pastry chef, did not come to Ciano to loaf. There is an intense pistachio cake on his menu as well as a reconfigured tiramis